Pointing your camera east or west on the other hand will lead to the longest trails in the center of the frame. If you shoot with a wide angle lens you’ll also notice that the stars to the edge of the frame show more trailing. For example, if you’re facing straight north, you’ll notice only minimal movement of the stars in the center of your frame. 2) In which direction you are taking your photo.
So the best thing is for you to test this and check, if, rather than going with the 500 rule, you might want to use a 250 rule or go even shorter with your exposures.
It’s also very subjective how a viewer will perceive this. It’s quite obvious that as you print larger, trailing stars will become more noticeable. 1) How large you want to reproduce your photo and at which distance it will be viewed.What this formula neglects are two things: But if you also like to print your photos large – 18 inch or more – then you might want to reconsider. If you take your photos primarily to be showcased on the web, then you’ll be fine using it. But this rule is not absolute and certainly not right for everyone. What this rule basically tells you is: the longer the focal length, the shorter you must expose your photo, if you want to avoid trailing stars. You might have heard of the 500 rule, which is often used to calculate the maximum exposure time: Focal Length and Shutter Speedįocal length has a huge influence on the maximum time you can expose a photo of the night sky without the stars showing as trails. The desire to practice more Astrophotography was one of the main reasons for me to make the investment and switch to the Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8 lens*, which delivers great results for night photography when shooting wide open at 15mm. Make sure to do some tests right after purchase to ensure your lens works properly, so you can return it otherwise. Prime lenses might often be your best choice, but there are also some zoom lenses that do a great job. Also make sure that you purchase a lens that will give you sharp results even at its widest aperture. So, although the techniques I share below can also give you great results with a f/4 lens, I’d suggest that, if you want to get into Astrophotography, you get at least a f/2.8 lens. Before switching to that lens I was also able to capture a few night photos with a f/4 lens on my Canon 5DSR – but I can tell you, it was much more work to get the results I was after. But even with the f/2.8 of the Canon RF 15-35mm lens, which I’m using, I can achieve high quality results.
The most commonly used lenses for Astrophotography often have apertures of f/1.8 or f/1.4. And to achieve this it’s important to use a lens that allows for apertures of f/2.8 or wider. To capture clean images of the night sky you have to get as much light onto the sensor of your camera as possible. Afterwards I share the exact settings and the workflow I use with the Canon R5 that give me great results. Even if you don’t shoot with a Canon R5, this information will be valuable for your next night photography trip. I will start this article with some fundamentals, explaining how different camera settings will affect your night photos. And in this article I share the, what I think, best camera settings for Astrophotography. Now, with the right camera settings I can achieve high quality results on a constant basis. With my previous camera, the Canon 5DSR, it was much harder to capture clean night photos. Capturing, for example, the Milky Way over a detailed landscape is no longer a problem. Since I purchased the Canon R5* a year ago together with the Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8 lens*, I became much more confident with night photography.
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